Pacific Coast, Day 11: Florence, OR to Coos Bay, OR

I don’t want to sound grumpy or ungrateful, but today’s ride wasn’t very scenic, with a couple exceptions.

Most of today’s ride was on US 101, which was really fast, loud and busy. It has mostly adequate, seldom generous, and occasionally inadequate shoulders, but (as a consolation) the road is in mostly great shape. But I can’t even imagine riding here during peak summer season.

The surroundings didn’t feel very “coastal” and I only glimpsed the ocean once. There were so many logging trucks, but those drivers seemed like they were being really careful. I WAS passed unpleasantly closely by MANY vehicles, including a few tractor-trailers, like this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pir_qmtutiU

My first nice respite from the noise and speed happened at Winchester Bay. I went on a loop around the Umpqua River Lighthouse, and the roads were blessedly quiet, and offered the day’s only glimpse of the Pacific Ocean.

I stopped for “second breakfast” at a strip-mall café in Reedsport, Oregon. A man walked in carrying grocery bags from the Safeway next-door, and asked me if I had done “Paris-Brest-Paris.” Paris-Brest-Paris is the iconic 1200 kilometer flagship ride that randonneurs generally consider the crowning achievement of randonneuring.

I was really confused, because I assumed he had just seen my ridiculously overloaded bicycle – a very non-randonneuring setup – outside, but it turned out he had seen me earlier while driving down US 101, and I was wearing the fluorescent pink Seattle Randonneurs jersey.

I haven’t done PBP, and probably won’t, and told him that. He was sad that I have not done it, but he told me a little bit of his story, and I looked him up on rusa.org. He did PBP in 1983 and 1991, and was one of the early organizers of the Davis Bike Club!

His name is Larry Robinson, RUSA #120: https://rusa.org/cgi-bin/resultsearch_PF.pl?mid=120&sortby=date

I can’t overstate how DEEPLY I regret not getting a picture with him.

Just before crossing the imposing Coos Bay bridge, I pulled over to take a picture of it, and saw Nick (from yesterday’s ride) sitting on a park bench. I went over to admire his bike and chat about bike gear, and later Pablo and Theodore also showed up.

This turned out to be a HUGE blessing, because we were able to cross the long bridge two-by-two for safety. We also had a little tailwind, which helped. We timed it so a school bus was behind us, figuring a school bus driver would probably not be aggressive. I didn’t notice the passenger car in front of the bus, but they were also really patient. I waved at the passenger car and school bus as they passed, and the passenger car’s driver gave us a friendly honk. I was so relieved to reach the other side! This was definitely the most fun part of the day. Thanks, Nick, Pablo and Theodore!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfzpyGolAuM

Also, I saw the (possibly homophobic) “pink shirt club” guy who wouldn’t talk to me a couple days ago walking across the bridge. See, if you aren’t a weirdo and jerk, you can find people who will help you stay safe on scary bridges, so you don’t have to walk!

Umpqua River Lighthouse
Umpqua River Lighthouse
Another glamor shot of my bike with the Pacific Ocean and sand dunes in the distance.
Another glamor shot of my bike with the Pacific Ocean and sand dunes in the distance.
Me, Nick, Theodore and Pablo
Me, Nick, Theodore and Pablo
Nick and his Rivendell.  His huge handlebar bag is made by Ron's Bikes (https://ronsbikes.com/).  I like it, but I think you kind of need to build the bike around it!
Nick and his Rivendell. His huge handlebar bag is made by Ron’s Bikes (https://ronsbikes.com/). I like it, but I think you kind of need to build the bike around it!
One of the murals at my motel tonight.
One of the murals at my motel tonight.
One of the murals at my motel tonight.
One of the murals at my motel tonight.
One of the murals at my motel tonight.
One of the murals at my motel tonight.

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