Trans Am, Day 56: San Luis, CO to Taos, NM

After struggling a little yesterday, I was worried about today. I needn’t have worried. It was a breeze. I didn’t really stop until I was 50 miles in, partly because it was SOOOO COLD! I saw it get as low as 33.7°F (1°C)! I was really hoping it would go below freezing, so I could brag about how I froze in the middle of summer, but it stopped at 33.7°. Surprisingly, I stayed reasonably warm – even my feet (with Keen Commuter sandals). But I didn’t want to stop and cool down.

I rolled into Taos pretty early, and checked into a local icon: The Kachina Lodge. It has seen better days (especially the rooms), but they’re working on restoring it, and I love it anyway.

For those who don’t know, I grew up in Taos. I left in the mid-1970s (to live with my dad in Georgetown, Colorado), but Taos has always been, and will always be, extremely important in my life. In terms of cycling, my love for this started here, when my mom got me a 10-speed department store bike, and I could suddenly go anywhere. There is a straight line between that day and this one.

But this is the first time since the 1970s that I’ve been here on a bicycle. I know all of the streets within a mile of the center of town as if I rode them yesterday, and rolling down these roads brings back sublime memories of my childhood on a bicycle.

Another thing that I love about New Mexico is the food, which is unlike the food anywhere else. Normally, I don’t eat meat, but I don’t avoid it in Taos. The food is so important to my appreciation of the culture that I put aside my desire to avoid meat while I am here, and I have zero qualms with that decision.

I am taking a few days to visit friends and family, so I won’t be riding again until Sunday.

Early morning shadow on the sagebrush
Early morning shadow on the sagebrush
Another tool find: tire repair awl!
Another tool find: tire repair awl!
Another landmark on the way to Taos!
Another landmark on the way to Taos!
Taos Mountain.  It is sacred to the Taos Pueblo Indians, and looms over all of Taos.  I think it is one of the most beautiful mountains around!
Taos Mountain. It is sacred to the Taos Pueblo Indians, and looms over all of Taos. I think it is one of the most beautiful mountains around!
This is Johnny's Barbershop.  When I was a kid, I got my hair cut here, by Johnny Tafoya.  Johnny has retired, but Ruben (the barber on the left) has been cutting hair for more than 50 years.  This shop hasn't really changed since the 1970s.
This is Johnny’s Barbershop. When I was a kid, I got my hair cut here, by Johnny Tafoya. Johnny has retired, but Ruben (the barber on the left) has been cutting hair for more than 50 years. This shop hasn’t really changed since the 1970s.
A sign on the wall at Johnny's that has been there for at least 45 years.
A sign on the wall at Johnny’s that has been there for at least 45 years.
Jerome Ortega trimmed my unruly bike touring beard.  This is the first time I've been to a barber since I started shaving my head in 2000!
Jerome Ortega trimmed my unruly bike touring beard. This is the first time I’ve been to a barber since I started shaving my head in 2000!
Jo Ann and I were classmates when we were kids!
Jo Ann and I were classmates when we were kids!
Taos Plaza.  Some things haven't changed (Hotel La Fonda), but when I was a kid, this was the real social center of town.  Now it is the tourist center.
Taos Plaza. Some things haven’t changed (Hotel La Fonda), but when I was a kid, this was the real social center of town. Now it is the tourist center.
My first food stop.  While I am here, I will only be eating New Mexican food.  If you can get it outside New Mexico, I won't eat it, because there is food you can ONLY get here.
My first food stop. While I am here, I will only be eating New Mexican food. If you can get it outside New Mexico, I won’t eat it, because there is food you can ONLY get here.
...like sopapillas.  Here, they're used as bread!
…like sopapillas. Here, they’re used as bread!

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